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I'm making a replica of a theater costume (see photo below). Basically, it's meant to be a Victorian interpretation of a Rococo gown, as made for an opera.



Right now, I'm trying to figure out what shape to make the skirt pattern. (And thereby the petticoat.) I'm looking at the 1854 Flounced Skirt as a possibility, but there's a few things I need to know first.

* The 1854 Flounced Skirt--is the base under the ruffles a gathered rectangle or is it shaped/gored? I can't imagine sewing ruffles to a rectangular base and then gathering it. That doesn't sound right, so I'm guessing it's shaped, somehow. But how?

* How many yards would the 1854 Flounced Skirt use if it was mid-calf length, with the bottom ruffle left off? How much of that would be fabric that's hidden under the ruffles? (I have a limited amount of fabric and it must be used wisely. I don't mind using a different fabric for the parts that won't be seen.)

* Would the 1854 Flounced Skirt pattern work without a hoop under it? If I wore a 50's-style net petticoat (with or without the addition of a ruffled broadcloth petticoat), would it give me the shape I'm looking for?

* If I did not use the 1854 Flounced Skirt, what shape would be best for the skirt base? It needs to be swishy. And it needs to have at least three rows of ruffles sewn onto it. So, a circle? Gored? Tiered? Something else?

As always, any help will be greatly appreciated!

[Heather]

The TV241 skirt pattern actually is ruffles sown to a rectangle and then gathered to fit the waist. It was how they made skirts back then. It is a lot of fabric. I think for your pic, you would be better off using a gored skirt. Now I think on it a bit, I think the Can Can skirt might be just what you need. TV280, in the 1890s section of the catalog is a full circle skirt in 7 gores. Since you are covering the whole thing in ruffles, I would make the skirt out of a complimentary lining, since it won't really be seen at all.

Ah, thank you! That does look like it might work.

I'm looking at the yardage though, and I'm shocked. Seven yards just for the skirt base? Ten to twelve yards for the ruffles? Granted, mine will only have three wide ruffles, as opposed to a lot of narrow ruffles. And the front of the skirt is a different fabric entirely. But that's still a LOT more fabric than I was expecting. Someone else made a copy of this costume and she assured me that 8 yards of 54"/60" fabric would be plenty, given that I'm short. That includes the bodice and all the ruffles, too!

I'll definitely make the skirt base out of a different fabric. I'll have to make a mockup to be sure I have enough fabric for the whole costume, though.