everything you ever wanted to know about corsets can hopefully be answered here
by Arrwillia » Sun Dec 04, 2005 10:16 am
I bought the Laughing Moon pattern yesterday at the SASS Convention yesterday and am itching to get started with it. Heather did you not have a booth there? I looked and looked but didn't see Truly Victorian.
Anyway, I'm having trouble deciding which size to make. I've had 3 kids in the last 4 yrs so I'm 'squishy' all over. My measurements are 38 bust, 32 waist, 38 hips. The bust measurement is in a good supportive bra, it's actually about 36 without bra on. I have the 'mommy bulge' in the front, so my waist is REALLY squishable. My hip measurements are about the only one that is truly accurate. I've had problems with sewing patterns in the past because I'm actually pretty narrow through the shoulders/ribs. My underbust measurement is 34. All of you that have had kids know how everything gets 'redistributed' afterward! In bras right now I wear a 34D. According Heather's Silverado page it says if your waist is a higher size than the bust then to reduce the cup size. It also says to automatically cut a smaller size anyway since it runs big. So should I do a C cup size 12 top, fade to a size 16 waist and then size 14 hip?? I would really like to get some waist reduction, I know there's plenty that will squish and smooth out. I want to put hip gores in too, will that make a difference in sizing?
Also, where's a good place to get the boning? What type do you prefer? I haven't had a chance to really read through the pattern so I don't know what it recommends.
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by Heather » Sun Dec 04, 2005 10:48 am
Hi Arrwilla,
Ok, nothing like a good sizing challenge. If you know that your middle will squish quite a bit, then I would go with a size 14 B, top to bottom. This should give you good bust support, and slimmer waist, and plenty of room for hips. You do not want to make the waist bigger than the rest, or you will have no shape at all. Do not add hip gores. I just ruins the lines and the sizing is too uncontrollable. If you need more room in the hip, make the hips a bigger size. It is the same as adding the gores, but is done while retaining the lines and easily sized to add the right amount.
Boning, you need 1/4" wide steel boning. The white flat steel will be good for the sides and back, and you will need the spiral steel for around the bust gores in front. YOu can find a list of suppliers on the links page,
http://trulyvictorian.netfirms.com/links.html
All of this should be covered on the TV help pages,
http://trulyvictorian.netfirms.com/LM100.html
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by Terrilee » Sun Dec 04, 2005 10:57 am
I would go with the Dore actually, if I were you, since you're decently busty, and you're after more of a waist reduction. When I've made up the pattern I've found that using Heather's advice on the FAQ page gives you a much better fit than estimating by the pattern measurements. Even so, you may need to take it in a little bit. I recently made one for myself for the first time and found I had to take it in a few inches in order to get the gap in the laces (I'm attributing it to the fact that I'm squishy like you having had 2 babies in the last 3 years

) The dore is actually a little easier too. Does that make any sense? (I have mommy mushbrain syndrome right now)
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by Sumalee » Sun Dec 04, 2005 11:35 am
Definitely listen to HEather fitting wise, I have nothing to add becuase I know virtually nothing about fitting. Well, I do, but not as much as Heather.
But for boning, I would do spiral steel around the bust gores like she said, as well as the 1/4 spring steel at the stress points. In the boning channels in the center of each piece, I used cable ties, just because there are so many. I used mostly cable ties and my LM corset offers great support. SOme people say it's a sin, but I say that if it works as well and it cheaper, use it

What? Did I just say something strange(or costuming/fabric/historical accuracy/Phantom/Ballet/Moulin Rouge related)? No, of course not......
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by Arrwillia » Sun Dec 04, 2005 12:54 pm
Thanks for all the help! I have a concern about the Dore though. I tried one of the Simplicity corsets, which did not have bust gores, and it did NOTHING for my figure! Dh even commented on how it flattened my bust. I really need a the support to lift and get them in their proper position

So will the dore do this? That's the main reason I was going to do the Silverado, thought it might shape the girls a little better.
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by Sumalee » Sun Dec 04, 2005 5:28 pm
From what I uderstand, the Dore should shape a larger bust better. but I am certainly not really the one to ask because I 1. made the Silverado 2. Haven't made the Dore 3. Am very small busted (34 B-ish)
However, the Silverado does flatter most people's shape more so than the Dore from the pictures I've seen. It seems to shape more than flatten, but I think that's mostly due to the hip gores. I just think the Silverado looks nicer.

What? Did I just say something strange(or costuming/fabric/historical accuracy/Phantom/Ballet/Moulin Rouge related)? No, of course not......
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by Heather » Sun Dec 04, 2005 5:52 pm
I think the Silverado would be a good choice for you. As you say, the Dore does tend to flatten a bit. And we want to accentuate a difference between the bust and waist. The problem is even though you have a larger bust, it is negated by the larger waist. So on paper, it brings us back to the equivalence of a B cup size. A little definition will be a good thing here. I think the Dore will not give that definition.
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by Lioness » Sun Dec 04, 2005 7:11 pm
I want to make a corset, but I am waiting for Heather's next class. I want to reserve a couple of spaces because I waited too long to make the last class. I am ready, ready, ready for the Next Corset Class, Miss Heather!
Lioness
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by Terrilee » Sun Dec 04, 2005 8:06 pm
I'm REALLY busty (38F) so listen to Heather

I'll post a picture of my Dore for you, it definately rounds more than accentuates.
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by LiLadyLuthien » Sun Dec 04, 2005 8:34 pm
My first silverado corset experience wasn't exactly the best. The pattern pieces fit together perfectly - but the sizing threw me off all the way.
I got a bit upset when I found that the smallest size was way too big for me. My measurements were only bust - 31, waist - 25, hips - 33. I completely eliminated the side back piece.

(Was that a good idea??? no...but it fit right.) And then had to cut about half an inch from the side of each piece in order to get atleast a three- inch gap when laced in comfortably.
I used the silverado because I have almost no bust. I would suggest it for anyone who has nothing like me.
Has anyone else found that the smallest size was too big for them? Or am the only teenager who sews anymore? (besides sumalee!)
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by Terrilee » Sun Dec 04, 2005 9:08 pm
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