Hello everyone! This is my first time posting in the TV forums, so greetings to everybody. There's a lot of great advice here, so I was wondering if you could help me out.
First of all, here is the inspiration dress:
It's dated at 1883 and has is described as follows: Purple silk cut velvet with floral pattern; set of bodice, skirt and train; bustle style; fringes of ribbon and chenille; metal buttons; pleated decoration at hem of skirt.
It's from the Kyoto Costume Institute, and though I don't really like the pattern on the fabric, I am totally in love with the silhouette and draping of this dress. It's so crisp and clean. I've only made one other Victorian gown before, but it was so fun and easy that I think I caught the bug. I can't wait to do it again.
I've never drafted my own patterns, or even really modified existing ones, so that's where I was hoping that you gals (or guys) could help me.
Unfortunately the photo is not very big and there is only one angle. The description is not very helpful either... but...
I've tried to break down the sections and find TV patterns that were close or could be adjusted.
- It looks just like the TV460 1885 Cuirass Bodice, but maybe with an added pleat or 'fan' affect in the back. I'm not sure, it's hard to see from the photo...
- Very simple pleated underskirt. The TV261 1885 Four-Gore Underskirt should work fine. My only question is how far the underskirt extends in the back. I can't tell if it is trained or not.
- It is hard to tell if the overskirt and train are separate pieces, but I'm going to assume they're just one piece, since the Institute’s description said there were only three pieces to the dress.
This is where I get a little confused. The front panel of the overskirt is flat, not draped, and I haven't seen many overskirt patterns hear that are like that. It appears to be in a few layers: the silky fabric underneath is pleated and then held in place by bands of the overlaying velvet fabric, which seems to be cut into rectangular tabs at the bottom.
There are drapes on the sides, starting where the front panel ends and then meeting the train. The composition of the overskirt/train actually reminds me a bit of the TV216 1875 Parisian Trained Skirt, which is a pattern I've worked with before.
The train is where I really get sort of stuck. I think I could improvise the front and side panels of the overskirt, but I have no idea how to drape or modify a train.
I know this is a lot of info, but I'm doing this for a school project and would like to really do this gorgeous dress justice. Any help would be greatly