Hmm. I may need to stick to ballgowns with puffed sleeves, or else find a solution to this... I feel way too claustrophobic with the sleeves constricting my movement so much!
I laced myself properly into my corset and took photos of the bodice. They're not the greatest quality, but I hope it will help. The wrinkles were a lot better when I tried it on this time, but it's still constricting too much.
Sleeve With Arm Raised Forward
Sleeve With Arm Raised Off to the Side
Sleeve with Arm Down at Side
With the bare arm, you might be able to tell where the shoulder edge is. I'm not sure exactly where the "natural shoulder line" is, so I've no idea if it's in the right place or not. The edge of the arm? Straight up from the armpit? Somewhere in-between?
As for how it's set, I tried to see if it lines up the way you said, but I'm not sure. All the seams seem to be at angles, at least somewhat! It does hang sort of odd, with a buckling of the fabric just under the armpit, but that may be because it's pinned on. It won't hurt to try rotating it, anyway. Part of the problem may be that I didn't have any markings to tell where to sew the gathering line and where the parts of the sleeve were supposed to line up with the arm hole, so I just winged it.
New problem... Bodice Closure
You may notice there is something going on with the front closure. I thought
I'd fixed this problem, but obviously it's still there....
The front closure overlaps; I put in alternating hooks and eyes to fasten it, 10 of them, about an inch apart. Toward the waist, the fabric pulls away from the hook and/or eye, making it look as though the bodice is being fastened against great strain. But it isn't! I have room enough to shift the bodice around, and to easily hook and unhook the fasteners. So it doesn't seem too tight. I can even flatten the fabric by hand, but when I let go, it goes back the same way.
Is it really too tight? The hooks up at the top do this a little bit and it seems loose up there. But the ones toward the bottom are the worst. I sewed the hooks and eyes down securely, at the sides of the eyes and the tops of the hook, not just around the eyelets. So it's not that the hooks are pulling away from the fabric.
After looking at the picture, it occurred to me... could it be that the lining is too loose or too big? The vest panels are lined separately, with the fabric basted to the main lining. Could that stitching be too loose, allowing the lining to fold outward like that? I could redo the basting, make it more secure, or maybe pull it tighter so the lining is narrower. Or would topstitching the edges do the trick?
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