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Hi Heather,

I just received your pattern for 1880's buckram hat frame and am going to try my first hat! My question is where can you find millinary wire?

Thanks,
Julie

[Heather]

Hi Julie,

You can find it at hat making supply stores, or most costume supply places. You will most likely have to order supplies rather than find them locally. I have been buying most of my supplies lately from Richard the Thread.

http://www.richardthethread.com/index.php?submenu=Millinery&src=directory&view=shop_richard&srctype=detail&refno=135&category=Millinery%20Supplies

I like to get 19 gauge wire, but I can't remember if that is the "medium" wire or the "heavy" wire. I think it's the medium. There are other places online, you can do a quick search and find several.

I buy mine from Hats by Leko. They also have various weights of buckram, pre made hat forms, feathers, flowers and all sorts of millinery supplies.

I have not tried to make a hat, yet, but I did want to share with you, as an option. My town has a store with fishing supplies and they have some of the coolest looking feathers that would be fabulous for a hat.

I second the reccomendation for Hats by Leko. Good prices and great service.

Thanks everyone. I did order it online and it should be here soon. My other question is should i use a stronger thread to sew the wire on then the usual all purpose thread? I've made many Victorian dresses but this is my first hat so any advice is appreciated!

If I'm doing it by hand I use regular thread, doubled. But I usually do most wire by machine, with my regular foot and a wide zigzag for the most clearance. Good luck on your hat!

One ome question!! The hat that's pictured on the catalog page for this pattern. Is it a tall or extra tall crown? It's a beautiful blue one with feathers..Thanks. I'm debating which height to make!!

[Heather]

The blue finished hat was the tallest version. The green brocade hat is the second shortest height. There is a very short version, shorter than the green and then another one between the green and the blue.

I love the tall version, it is so perfect for late 1880's.

Well I did go with the tallest version. I had cut out the pieces last night and since 5 this afternoon stitched on the wire, finished the crown and top with the fabric and am half done with the brim. It's almost 11:30 so i think I'm done for tonight. This is to go with the August Overskirt, Gored Underskirt and French Dress Bodice all of which are pretty much done. The colors are a deep red and ivory lace with red fringe, red braid, black braid and black tassel trim. The hat is red with the underbrim of the ivory lace and most likely I'll use some balck trim as wll ..maybe feathers. Thanks for all your help!!

Ok so now i need more help! I put the wire on the bottom of the crown as the directions said. I'm ready to sew the tape to the brim and attach it to the crown but the top is VERY tall and looks very different then the photo on the pattern page. I did a trial try on and although I know it's not going to sit down on my head it so tall that I doubt if i can get a hatpin in anything. Also the wire on the bottom edge of the crown is cutting into my head and I don't think I'll be able to turn the seam allowance up once the tape is sewn on because of the wire. Should I not have put the wire in the bottom? and how can I make this look better and fit a bit better? i did make the large so that's not the problem.

[Heather]

The wire of the crown should match up to the wire on the inside of the brim. The wire on the brim should not be at the cut edge, but inside the edge where it is marked on the pattern. The brim should then be clipped to the wire before the bias tape is sewn on. The tape and the clipped part will all fold up inside the crown. Or it should at any rate. If that is not happening, I think I need to see a pic to know what is going on.

The height of the crown does not effect a hat pin. You insert the pin on one side, under a few strands of hair, and then out the other side of the hat. You can place the pin at any angle, and from any direction, in order the the hold that you want. It sometimes helps to make a small ponytail bump under the hat to pin through. Unfortunately, everyone has to find a method that work with your specific hat and hair style.

Ok Heather. i see how it goes. I'm thinking that maybe I should have made the tall version instead but too late now. Thanks again.

I've found with my hats, that because I don't have a lot of natural hair to pin a hatpin through, it helps to run a very thin covered elastic band under the brim on both sides which wraps around your head under your hairstyle in the back. Hats by Leko sells these elastics in several different "hair" colors. They have small metal clips at each end which push through the hat layers and anchor it without sewing. I still use a hatpin, but just for the correct look and not because it's actually anchoring the hat to anything.

You can also sew a small plastic hair comb into the hat to help secure it to your head (usually best in the back where most of your hairstyle would be). The kind I'm thinking of is the decorative type they sell in the bridal section of craft stores, not a regular comb.

[Heather]

Never judge a hat without your full costume on. If you are in modern clothing with a modern hair style, you are seeing the hat through a modern eye. The look of a hat will change completely with the correct hair and outfit.

Never judge a hat without your full costume on. If you are in modern clothing with a modern hair style, you are seeing the hat through a modern eye. The look of a hat will change completely with the correct hair and outfit.

SO TRUE!

Hi Heather,

I wanted to give you an update on my hat. I finished it and wore it to the annual Victorian Stroll in Troy, NY on Sunday. My dress was TV 261, 365 and 463. It was red faux silk and I did the insert on the bodice with an ivory lace over the red and the same lace on the sleeves for cuffs and on the inside collar. I trimmed the skirt and overskirt with knife pleating, black velvet bands, red braid and red fringe. I also trimmed the bodice with a black soutache braid. The hat was made out of the same red silk with the lace on the underside of the brim. I used the red braid over the lace at the end on the underside of the brim and the black braid around the crown. I trimmed it with red and black feathers and black velvet leaves. Although I have plenty of hair to pin it through it wouldn't really stay put so I sewed some black ribbons on and tied it as well as used a hat pin.

Although I didn't feel I did the best job with the hat I had so many compliments on it that it's inspired me to try again! I'm just trying to think what would be a good color choice for one that would go with a lot of different dresses outside of black of course. Would this pattern do for the late 1870's natural form as well as the mid 1880's bustle? I want to get into making some natural form dresses..a bit easier to drive to events ! Thanks again for all you help with this..it was a success!

Pictures!

[Heather]

If you do the shorter crown versions, it will pass for a more Natural Form style hat. And I agree, pictures!!!

I'll try to send what I have. My boyfriend took them of me and he never got a full version but I put the dress on my dress form so i can send that as well.